Floor repair - arrangement of the floor along the beams + flooring of chipboard grooved board
How to replace a panel parquet floor with your own hands, a budget floor on beams at no extra cost. How to set beams on a concrete base using tile adhesive, installing a log, laying chipboard plates.
In this article, I will tell you one of the options for arranging a wooden floor on a concrete base of an interfloor slab.
In this situation, the floor repair will be carried out in a 12-meter room of a panel house. The floor itself was originally a panel parquet laid on wooden beams, for 50 years, the floor “worn out” in places and began to creak very strongly.
The challenge was to preserve the old beams and minimize the cost of installing the new floor. Immediately, I will try to answer questions that may have already appeared in the viewer. In a specific situation, the option of arranging a cement screed was not considered due to the unwillingness to subject the thin floor slab to additional load and the duration of the surface drying.
Also, a rather “fashionable” and now promoted option was noted using the base filling with expanded clay and further laying sheets of gypsum fiber on it.
When asked why, I’ll say this, personally, this technology does not inspire confidence at all for me, although there are a lot of rave reviews about this technology on the network, but you can also find negative ones, who are interested in which ones, we can discuss it in the comments. The same version of the new floor was chosen, that is, the installation of a log on a concrete slab with subsequent flooring on top of them with 22 mm tongue-and-groove chipboards, on which the final laminate flooring will subsequently be laid.
Well, now let's move on to the process itself.
Dismantling of the old coating, preparation of the base
The first step is to dismantle the old panel parquet.
When removing boards, I try to save the old boards, as they will be used again in the future.
All debris is removed, the concrete slab is cleaned of dust and covered with reinforcing soil.
The role of the so-called beams, here they performed boards 120 mm wide and 35 mm thick. The beams were laid flat and level on pads of noise absorbing material.
For the stability of the new floor, it was decided to lay the boards in increments of about 40 cm, so I add the required number of new ones to the old and strong ones.
The required height of raising the beams above the level of the concrete floor in different places was from 35 mm to 50 mm.
Since the base of the floor is a concrete slab with clumsy concrete flows and a slight slope to one side, it was decided to expose and lay the logs not on the linings as before, but on the tile adhesive mortar.
For which, initially, on the beams, I marked the points of contact between the board and the glue, for each three-meter board, I decided to make 5 points of support, where the length of each point of support and tile adhesive would be approximately 40 cm. Further, in order for the tree not to absorb moisture from the solution, I wrap the points of contact of the beams with tile adhesive with ordinary adhesive tape.
I mark the places where the beams are to be installed on the wall, taking into account the length of future panels made of chipboard, so that the joining of the panels along the short side will definitely be on the board.
Further, having installed all the logs in their places, for the convenience of positioning them in height and in one plane, I screw in two long self-tapping screws from each edge and in the middle.
Having installed a laser level, and guided by it, with the help of self-tapping screws I set the boards to the height I need.
Next, I prepare a thick solution of fiberglass reinforced tile adhesive. Throwing the board aside, in the places where the glue is laid, I apply glue to the floor, first to the strip, after which I lay the required amount of glue in height and even a little more. Having laid all five pillows of glue, I lay a board on them. After that, with the help of a laser level and self-tapping screws, I make the final height adjustment of the log.
It will not be superfluous to check the boards with the help of a level, if a board has an unevenness or a propeller shape, it is better to replace it, in extreme cases, saw it into several parts. I perform such manipulations with all the remaining beams.
After the glue hardens, I unscrew all the screws and remove the upper part of the adhesive tape, I check again that all the lags are set to the same level.
Next, I attach a soundproof tape to all the logs using a stapler. Now you can lay chipboard plates, the plate has a tenon-groove connection around the perimeter, in this situation I use a plate with a thickness of 22 mm.
I connect the plates to each other carefully smearing the joints with PVA glue. The slab is laid along the wall with a small gap of about 5 mm. , the gap will allow the slab to expand and also eliminate the transfer of noise load to the walls.
Along the wall, with the help of self-tapping screws, I fix the plates.
I produce the flooring of all slabs, not forgetting about the connection of the slabs along the short edge only on the log. Also, when laying a “quick deck” slab, it is necessary to take into account the sides of the slab, the correct connection of the slabs is the option when the front joint is made without a gap, and the internal one with a gap, the so-called (compensation joint). True, apparently due to the unstable geometry of the plates, when they are connected, a gap can also form on the front side. Now about such an important point, when approaching the opposite wall with a slab, there often remains a narrow strip along the wall, what to do in a situation if just a few centimeters are missing.
Here you can go in several ways.
1 buy an additional required number of plates and cut off the missing piece from them, connecting it in the same way with a tongue and groove with glue. Of course, this option is more justified in a situation where there is a long distance to the wall.
Option 2, this is on a strip of a plate of the required width, and using a milling cutter, cut a groove and connect the plates again in the traditional way.
I went the other way, I absolutely didn’t want to buy two additional slabs for building up 5-7, I didn’t want to do milling work either, there was no load on the floor in this place either, so I did it.
Since I had a sufficient number of trimmings without grooves, having previously trimmed the edge of the last slab, I decided to build up the slab with segments of a suitable width and connect it to the main slab using glue of wooden dowels and self-tapping screws.
Having thus increased the missing distance for the plates near the wall, I fix this side of the floor in the same way, with the help of self-tapping screws, screwing them through the plate into the logs along the wall and selectively and without fanaticism in the middle.
Next, with the help of mounting foam, I fill the gap between the wall and the slab. After the foam dries, the excess is cut off, the floor is ready for laying the finishing floor covering.
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